Friday, May 3, 2013

There's no place like an old home

Early Monday morning Antonette and I caught a bus to the province of Bulacan, about an hour and a half north of Quezon City, Cubao. Only 75 pesos, not bad! Clem met us in the town centre of Baliwag with a family van and drove us up to the Maniquis family resort in San Miguel - kind of like the cottages we have in Lake Country in the Canadian Shield - the families can also rent out the resort to various people.






There's three side-by-side hotel-like rooms each with two beds and a bathroom, a beautiful fresh-water pool, a pond with a villion (a thatched-roof gazebo structure) built over top, and a covered bar with kitchen and sinks.








The garden was beautiful, full of flowers and Tonet's mother's collection of little sculptures. We arrived mid-day and too late to go hiking so we planned to go first thing in the morning to Biak na Bato National Park since Clem had to return the van by Tuesday early afternoon.




Instead we drove through town hunting for some historic houses. One monstrous mansion in incredibly ramshackle state: the Sevilla residence is too structurally unsound to enter, but the grounds are still inhabited by custodians to prevent squatters. The owner apparently built the epic-sized structure to prove to his father-in-law that he had money. Local legend has it that when motorcycles drive by late at night, a white lady appears in the mansion and shortly thereafter the motorcycle has a fatal accident.


















Next we stopped at the former residence of Tonet's mom's adopted mother, Narcisa Dona Sisang de Leon, late co-founder of LVN studios, which launched the movie industry of the Philippines. The house was built in 1914.









The floors and some furniture still stored in the house were made of narra wood, the Philippine national tree, now nearly extinct. It is forbidden to cut these trees now, but back in the day, practically everything was made from it.














Hungry, we drove to the town centre for snacks, and then returned to the resort to rest. While Tonet napped, I enjoyed a rare opportunity to play music with Clem - a major reason for my return to the PH.





We decided on dinner at Rockwood, a spacious place with a wide variety of food, and ended the sweltering day with evening swim among pink flowers that had fallen into the pool. Then much needed sleep since we planned on getting up ridiculously early to go hiking at Biak na Bato National Park.



Bright lights, party city

Days are spinning by in the summer heat of Manila. Just in from a night out on the town with friends. Hanging out with my gracious hostess with the smell of baking in the room, I'm finally clean after a day of being chronically sticky with sweat rolling off me as if I were in a sauna the whole time.

After running errands for baking goods (and for some pasalubong (souveneir gifts for others back home), I took 2 LRTs from the end of P. Tuazon Boulevard in Quezon City, Tuazon, to Santa Cruz Church, then the Pier Jeepney to The Manila Cathedral. I was to meet Carol at 6pm. Got a coffee at 7-11 (yes, it's all over the world from Winnipeg to Chicago to Manila) and sat down on the ledge of the water fountain in the park in front of the Cathedral to wait. And wait. She texted: her cab had been caught by police. Oi vey!

But the park was nice, well lit, and with a security guard. A friendly couple from Angono, Rizal province started chatting with me, telling me of all the sights to see. They were celebrating the woman's birthday: every year she attends mass at a nearby church as she has since she was a little girl. They told me of the art museums in Angono: Lucio San Pedro, Francisco Botong, and the cave with petroglyphs, the oldest in the Philippines.

Finally, Carol and Joel appeared! It was so nice to see those familiar faces once more in person. We headed to Illustrado, a fine-dining restaurant in the Intramuros area, not more than a few blocks away. We caught up over mango shakes, a San Miguel and a latte until Omay, Cocoy, and JB called, then headed to Barbara's, the fancy restaurant next to my favourite gift shop that sells paper art, under the museum of the restored Spanish house.





They had a reasonably-priced buffet with cultural entertainment. The place was full of tourists and when the performers invited people to try dancing the Tinikling (ankle-crushing pole dance), my friends ensured that I got picked on!



The buffet was nice - lumpia, and other stuff (traditional meat dishes) - hey, I'm not a foodie - and a coffee-jello dessert with cream and tapioca balls that looked like it was trying to be taho, my favourite street food of soft tofu, syrup and tapioca, served hot.




Where to go next? The hopping nightlife at MOA - the SM Mall of Asia. The entire length of it along Manila Bay is crowded with people, restaurants, bars, booths, games, and rides: zip line, train ride, ferris wheel. I'd seen it last year but in the morning when everything was dead.

We settled at Padi's Place where a terrible cover band was yowling out covers of One Direction and Aerosmith. The boys took turns passing Omay's egg shaker around and they ordered a group drink of gin and green grenadine syrup: a tall test-tube-like decanter, about three feet high.



All good things must end and folks had to work the next day so we walked back to the cars and they put me in a cab. I wrote down the license plate number and Omay covertly took a photo of the driver. I locked both doors and they told me to text them as soon as I got home. The ride was so long that they phoned the instant I got inside the Maniquis compound: "Are you home? Are you okay?" "Yes, yes, it was a very long ride!" All the way from Pasay to Quezon City. Traffic was actually not that bad but it was just far.

And now time for a rest!

Monday, April 29, 2013

It's too darn hot!

Winnipeg's winter was so darn long and cold this year and snow still lingered on the lawns as I caught a cab to the airport Saturday morning. I was glad to get some reprieve from the cold. But from one extreme to the other. Landing in Manila almost 30 hours after that early morning cab ride I was hit with a tropical heat wave indeed.

One thing to always remember about Manila is that there's always tons of people and tons of traffic, so patience is the one virtue to remember to pack: everything you do will take time. So it worked out perfectly that both my plane and my ride were late getting in to the airport. Antonette and her brother got stuck in traffic and I got stuck in a mad crush of disembarking passengers trying to get through customs. Finding my friend worked out just fine, though, and we found each other and eventually her brother and made it home. I can't express how nice it is to be able to meet up with good friends in a now not-so-strange city.

Today we took it easy, ran some errands and planned the next few days' adventures. Found a cheap cell phone for 500PHP, $12 CDN to be able to contact local friends - a critical device!

Followed the expert baker on her errands to an amazing institution located just on the corner from her house: a castle wherein everything related to baking is sold or taught. Chocolate Lovers is a baker's dream store with anything and everything the casual or professional baker could need.



The Maniquis family home is across the street from a former movie studio once owned by a family that started up the Manila film industry back in the day. Along the street are homes once owned and occupied by the movie stars of old. Today, the family home is under renovations but the garden is still beautiful and the cats and Ringo the dog don't mind the busy atmosphere.








Friday, April 26, 2013

Have Fiddle Will Travel to the Philippines Again

"Here I go again on my own" getting on a plane bound for Vancouver - Hong Kong - Manila in a few short hours.

Again, it wasn't my idea, I swear!

Alfie wanted to see Modern English live in Manila and figured it would be a good opportunity to record some songs with his former band mates. So he invited me to go along! It just so happened that I had some vacation time allowable so I took advantage of that and said 'okay, sure!' Those words have landed me in some amazing places around the world.

So here we go. All packed and hoping I'm not bringing too much, too little, or forgetting something critical. Headlamp, check. Screw driver, check. Violin, check. Oh, don't forget the duct tape!

Landing in about 30 hours!

Sunday, March 31, 2013

Easter in California

Happy Easter from Huntington Beach! I didn't expect to be travelling so soon again but here I am carrying on a family tradition. I realized I had enough air points to fly anywhere in North America so I figured I should hop down to Los Angeles again to visit Aunt Jean.



Brought the fiddle of course, just to play for family this time. Some women bring their favourite purse on a trip, I have my fiddle.

The oranges and lemons have ripened and are even re-blossoming. It's overcast but a far cry from ice-covered Winnipeg.




It's nice to take it easy and just visit. Tonight, a big Easter dinner with cousins! Now, rest.

Tuesday, February 5, 2013

A different kind of travelling: An artist's Spiritual Journey

Art is something you turn to when you have lost everything: then it takes you on a spiritual journey.

That is what Dutch-American painter Luc Leestemaker told his friend Canadian Composer Vincent Ho before cancer stole him away last May.

Leestemaker was the muse behind Ho's newest work for percussion and orchestra, From Darkness to Light: A Spiritual Journey featuring soloist Dame Evelyn Glennie, which premiered on Saturday, February 2nd at the Winnipeg Symphony Orchestra's New Music Festival.

I attended this remarkable concert, which also featured a work by American minimalist composer Steve Reich, and decided to try my hand at writing a review of the evening. Here is the result, an appropriate inclusion on my travel blog because, after all, it's about travelling - of a different kind.

WSO Composer-in-Residence, Vincent Ho
2-Feb-2013
Manitoba Centennial Concert Hall, Winnipeg, Canada
Art and poetry inspire percussive works at the WSO’s New Music Festival: Vincent Ho’s world premiere of From Darkness to Light: A Spiritual Journey performed by Dame Evelyn Glennie, and Steve Reich’s The Desert Music.
Reviewed by Christine Mazur

Canadian composer Vincent Ho programmed an evening of rich contrasts for the Winnipeg Symphony Orchestra’s 22nd Annual New Music Festival’s finale: the world premiere of his own percussion concerto, and an established work by American composer, Steve Reich. Ho has hit his stride in the past few years as the WSO’s composer-in-residence and curator of the festival. He continues forward with this second collaboration with Scottish percussionist Dame Evelyn Glennie, following his 2010 work for percussion and orchestra, The Shaman in what is intended to be a trilogy.

Dame Evelyn Glennie (photo from Vincent Ho's website)

The contrasts between Ho and Reich’s respective works arise from their experiences, inspirations and personal styles. Ho’s From Darkness to Light: A Spiritual Journey, has roots in his close friendship with Dutch-American painter Luc Leestemaker who died of cancer in May, 2012. Steve Reich’s The Desert Music (1983) was inspired by the poetry collection of the same title by the late American poet William Carlos Williams.

In the program notes, Ho describes his work as “my personal response to cancer” which “expresses the awfulness of the disease and the fight that one faces: fear, uncertainty, shock and grief; the quest for healing, hope - the journey from pain and suffering to peace and acceptance.” On stage, Ho recalled Leestemaker as “a brilliant man” who felt that art was something you turn to when you have lost everything: art then takes you on a spiritual journey. Ho called Glennie “a modern-day musical Shaman” who is the medium through which the audience experiences the journey.

As with Ho’s previous orchestral works this latest is full of passion and raw power. Though some parts verge on bombastic, they balance with delicate reflective moments through quiet, melodic solos.

Always barefoot when performing, Glennie’s first steps began with warm vibraphone tones buoyed by shimmering strings and rippling piano, evoking Debussy. Basses and brass slid ominously, heralding tension and chaos in what became a recurring theme. The initial peacefulness crumbled as Glennie sawed away with a bedraggled cello bow at a strange device that looked like two small bowls attached to a handle and rimmed with metal rods. The result was a thin screeching, barely audible. With sudden chaos, all the musicians flapped their music while Glennie pounded away at a series of tom-tom and bass drums. The chaos subsided to the sliding brass and strings, with tympani booming back and forth like Richard Strauss’s Also Sprach Zarathustra Space Odyssey 2001 theme. Then, a siren-like wail erupted.

The piano, vibraphone and shimmering strings returned, woven with a menacing growl in the lower strings and brass. A theme of acceptance emerged in higher tones above steady piano arpeggios, with Glennie toning the vibraphone in a melodic pattern, until the violins shimmered into nothing.
Artist, Luc Leestemaker (photo from the Spectator Tribune)

Concluding the work, Leestemaker’s paintings were projected on a large screen behind the orchestra while Glennie performed her own piece “A Little Prayer” for solo marimba, lit by a stark white spotlight. Finally her mallets faded and Glennie stood still for a full minute of silence.

Where From Darkness to Light was inspired by Ho’s relationship with a living artist and friend, Steve Reich’s The Desert Music (1983) came from his love of William Carlos William’s poetry.
Composer Steve Reich (from www.stevereich.com)

Also driven by percussion (Reich studied jazz drumming, as revealed at a post-show talk), the minimalist pioneer’s work for choir and orchestra was rigidly structured. Three string quartets framed conductor Alexander Mickelthwate’s podium, behind which two rows of four marimbas fronted a row of brass and woodwinds, behind which the choir was strung out in one line.

Microphones proliferated the stage unnecessarily. What might have been a lovely and expressive theme in the strings was instead tinny and scratchy. The only performer who actually needed amplification was the percussionist banging four drumsticks together: 1-2, 1-2-3, what Reich later described as a Bartok or Stravinski-like Bulgarian dance rhythm.

Like Ho’s piece, one instrument started Reich’s work, followed by deliberate layering. However, Reich’s layers were precise with distinct roles for each instrument. A lone piano gave way to individual violins, each adding fugue-like counterpoint rhythms.

In excerpts from Williams’ poem The Orchestra, the music matched the lyrics: the line “It is a principle of music to repeat the theme” - was repeated. At the phrase “the facts to be resolved,” the music instead ended in discord. Another siren-like sound emerged - this time from the violas - uncomfortably loud with the microphones. The piece ended with the orchestra scrubbing away in swells, more like ocean waves than sand dunes in a desert, before coming to an abrupt stop.

At the post-concert talk, Reich was asked how he would advise young composers: he encouraged them to take part in their musical communities, learn from others, and “steal everything that’s worth stealing.” Asked why he writes music, he replied, “There’s nothing on earth I’d rather do.”

Wednesday, January 2, 2013

2013: Staying close to travel far

Already it's two days into the New Year and I've got absolutely ZERO solid travel plans. What?!? Unheard of! It's true. 2013 will be a year of badly-needed sitting still and working hard to:

- save money for more travel
- get my act together as a soloist
- write stuff
- clean my house

The last bit sounds mundane but it's - also - true! When your surroundings are chaotic and jumbled, piles of junk and paper everywhere, it affects your peace of mind. Time to get rid of that old baggage and make room for a new life.

As I contemplate a more stationary, but increasingly musical immediate future, here's a review of what ended up being a most epic year for me in terms of travel and music.

January 2012 found me packing for the Philippines, a country I never expected to visit in a million years. But Veni, Vidi and Vici I did. And fully intend to return. The journey began as most of my epics. It wasn't my idea, I swear! Just like in 2009 a friend wanted to walk the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage across Spain, and was unable to last minute. I went anyway and met some amazing people across the world.



Just like in 2010, another friend suggested we go to Iceland to visit a former co-worker of his who we'd bonded with while hiking the Mantario Trail. My friend wasn't able to come but I went on my own and wandered from the West Fjords to the flowing lava fields of the volcano Eyafjallajökull.

Above Isafjordur, West Fjords of Iceland

Just like in 2011, the cellist from my string quartet suggested I sign up for the Manhattan String Quartet workshop in Salzburg, Austria to study the brilliance of Mozart. Since I was going all that way I figured I should stop in and visit all the good people I'd met on the Camino in 2009.

Entrance of the house where W.A. Mozart was born in Salzburg

2012 was no different. aLfie said one day, "Want to come to the Philippines with Inna and I?" He was half kidding, but the travel monkey on my back blinded me. "Yes! When?" aLfie had no choice then but to make arrangements. He ended up putting together an amazing schedule of rehearsals and gigs for his former indie New Wave band, Half Life Half Death and included every musician who had ever played with them. At our final concert Feb. 3 at Club Phi in Pasig City, Metro Manila, we had 10 people on stage by the end of our 19-song set.

ALL the members of Half Life Half Death. Photo by OmaY Gorecho Photography

It was an amazing experience for me, especially since I'd never dreamed of visiting anywhere in the Pacific Ocean, let alone Southeast Asia. For four weeks I was a resident of Pasay City, vacationed in Coron Town, Palawan, and learned how to manoeuver through the public transit system of Jeepnies, the LRT and metro busses. Most importantly I made some of the most amazing friends in my life, and had the distinct pleasure of being able to play music with them.

Returning home from the tropics to a frigid February, I immediately resumed my winter habits: not one week back in Manitoba and I was skiing 20km to the Mantario Cabin in the Whiteshell Wilderness Zone for the Louis Riel Day long weekend.



In March my only travel was changing jobs: after two-and-a-half years I hung up my PR hat at Turnstone Press and started a new job as a qualitative research analyst for a professor in Community Health Sciences, Faculty of Medicine. This meant no more vacation, but a new journey for me academically and career-wise.

Rock climbing took over life in an unusually warm April, and I left the city as much as possible if only for weekends.

In May, a work trip took me to Toronto where I took in a Picasso exhibit at the AGO, visited a friend and did way too much shopping!

For the July Long weekend, some friends and I went exploring places we'd never seen before on a canoe trip in the Grassy Narrows area.

The Riding Mountain Triathlon is a staple escape for my sister's in-laws every August where my goal each year is to try to beat my own 10km time. No such luck this year. Getting lazy! But I brought my fiddle and my accordion-playing bro-in-law and I whipped up some polkas for the kids.



September Long I hiked the 63km Mantario Trail through for the ninth time leading up to what I hoped would be a 10th in 10 years at Thanksgiving. Twas not to be, unfortunately, due to an unseasonal blizzard that buried the trail and blew down tree tops to mangle the whole length of the trail. Four of us bravely ventured 15km but turned back when it looked like we'd be killing ourselves to finish in 3 days with gawdawful conditions.

Members of the Alpine Club of Canada-Manitoba Section
who wisely turned back from this snow-covered 'summit'.

November found me escaping on a mini-epic journey to SoCal to play music with one of my newfound Philippine friends: singer/songwriter Clementine; discover family I'd never met; and experience Getty art, music ranging from country to classical, and hiking in Joshua Tree, one of the most starkly stunning places on earth.

Getty Centre gardens. In sunny November.

I was supposed to ski to the Mantario Cabin again to ring in the New Year, but was hit with strep throat right before, so there was no way I was going to ski that 22km into the wilderness with a heavy backpack. There are always other opportunities to travel!

As Auntie Mame (Rosalind Russell) said, "Life is a banquet and most poor suckers are starving to death!" Though I may be staying put for a bit this New Year, I intend to keep feasting.

Happy New Year!