There isn't any! Unless you pay big bucks for it, but even in the one and only greenspace between Makati and Pasay City there's bits of string stretched along the stone walkways of the Greenbelt shopping complex park preventing anyone from sitting under a coconut tree and reading a book. I got in a bit of reading at a Thai curry place at lunch, but the skinny kid serving me was making me nervous by standing 3 feet behind my chair so I had to engage him in conversation about Jose Rizal and his life and writings. The kid said everyone has to study him in high school and read the novels. He recommended I start with Noli Me Tangere since El Filibusterismo is the sequel. The kid said the Spanish executed him not for his revolutionary acts but purely because of his writing - they felt threatened by a weapon of mass destruction: his pen.
I walked this morning from Facundo Street in Pasay City despite everyone's moans of "it's so far!" Four kilometres. I do that twice every day to and from work - granted, though, it doesn't involve Jeepney-dodging and stepping over piles of garbage, poop and children. There are so many children, cats and dogs running around in that area. You don't pet any, of course - all flea-bitten and skinny, foraging for food. Yes, children included. Cute but sorry, I'm not giving you my change, dear, as it would involve digging into my bag and then being swarmed by a million more of you. What I witness daily just walking down the street speaks volumes about overpopulation and the Church's continued active discouragement of birth control in this country. Sorry, but it's a fact.
So I walked here in the heat and got sucked into the Greenbelt Mall complex looking for a park. I found Top Shop and Zara. There's also Banana Republic, Escada, Marc Jacobs, Juicy Couture, and every brand name that appears between the glossy covers of Vogue. Such a contrast after my walk through Pasay City.
Tomorrow evening is my last practice with the band before departing for Coron with my friend Rupert (Pet). Today, trying to find something other than shopping to do - I can't go many places by myself because as a foreigner I'm a target so the other option is to stay home and listen to the three-year-old scream. Sweet kid most of the time when he gets his own way but dare to cross him and hoo-boy! Back to locate some green space.
Friday, January 20, 2012
Ayala Museum and Improvisation
Thursday was my first time riding in a Jeepney, a modified WWII jeep that seats 14 and costs 8 pesos per 4 kilometres. I wanted to go to the Ayala Museum (built and financed by the Ayala family that made it rich investing in swamp land that then became prime commercial real estate - kind of like modern-day Medicis). As every day, I ended up doodling away the morning but caught a ride to the Makati-area museum with my host, Ramil, who had to go to the office anyway. He kindly showed me how to get from the Museum to the Jeepney Terminal, which happens to involve walking through the same series of Malls that I have now become familiar with: Greenbelt, Landmark, and Glorietta. We found a Power Books store and I was able to buy Joze Rizal's two novels.
Ayala Museum has a display of early Philippine gold artifacts. The ancient peoples would bury their dead with orifice covers and face masks made of finely-hammered gold, and used it for many decorative and religious things. Another gallery featured great Philippine artists including Juan Luna (19th Century), Fernando Amorsolo (20th Century), and Fernando Zobel (late 20th Century). Lastly was series of 60 dioramas depicting the main historical events in Philippine history. Much was bloody and full of oppression and occupation by other nations. The story of Jose Rizal was included along with those of other revolutionaries. Ninoy Aquino, the beloved senator who was assassinated, was prominently featured.
After a tiny bit of shopping (I did arrive in the PH with minimal clothes and have found it a bit of a pain) I made it to the Jeepney terminal and hopped aboard. Ramil had told me which stop to get off at: Aurora, and which Jeepney line to take: Pasay Road to Libertad. Not a problem. I'm getting used to the crowds and the traffic - not that I like it but you adapt.
Made it home just in time for a shower and a bite before we had to catch a cab to practice at Infinitif Studios. This time, a run through of last rehearsal's songs and then right into new stuff. Most I had gone over with Alfie in Winnipeg, listening to Half Life Half Death's CD and making notes of what to do where. Then of course he had to throw at me some new stuff I'd never heard before. Sure, no problem, bring it on! After we had a few minutes to jam and I grabbed Joel's accoustic guitar - we launched into a bunch of Cult, Cure, and Modern English tunes, plus some other randoms that I've never heard before. So much fun!!
Today, Friday, Inna, Alfie and I did the Fort Santiago where a facebook friend of Inna's, met through an online New Wave radio station, works as the Curator of the Jose Rizal museum and shrine. Zarah personally showed us around and answered all our questions. She's in charge of dealing with all media inquiries, event planning, and public relations for the museum, plus research and other coordinating related to the museum. It was really an honour to have her to ourselves for a little over an hour. Now I have a much better appreciation of what Jose Rizal, the Philippine national hero, means to this country. at the gift shop I bought a copy of his poems, a biography, and a collection of his letters and essays - most necessary purchases!
Then Inna led Alfie and I on a madcap search for the famous market, Divisoria. She jumped a Jeepney, then dove into a shoulder-to-shoulder crowd wending to a cathedral, Jesus de Nazarene or something like that. Mass was under way and a huge line extended out of the church awaiting communion. We all gripped our bags close and stayed close when we made purchases. Ultimately, the crowd was not the Divisoria we were looking for and we never got there because I needed to get back home in time to change and get ready to meet Ali and Sumek for dinner at 6pm at Harbour Square. Also, it seemed like it would be a bit of a hunt to find the elusive marketplace.
Once home I had just enough time to shower and change and then walk down the alley that is Facundo Street in my fancy heels from Salzburg and my silk dress made by Guru clothing in Winnipeg from recycled Indian saris. The cabby I hailed turned out to be an honest, hard-working gentleman who charged a fair rate and knew exactly where to take me. Fare only 85p but I gave him a tip.
There was just enough time to have a snack and a huge latte at Starbuck's (yes, there's a bunch even in Manila - so wrong - but it makes an obvious meeting place). Ali and Sumek arrived in decent time and we ate at a Korean resto called Crazy Pan. The food was spicey (set poor Ali sneezing), and plentiful beyond our stomach capacity. We made it to the Cultural Centre right across the street and had lots of time before the show. Rain's two boys sat with me and the other Winnipeggers and Rain managed to find a seat in the same row further down.
The program included a small 5-movement piece by Dvorak, then a trombone concerto by Rimsky-Korsakov, and finally Symphony No. 5 by Carl Nielson, the 20th Century Danish composer. After the show we waited around for autographs from the trombonist, and I finally got to meet my new facebook friend, conductor Olivier Ochanine. More on the concert later since I'm dead tired - again!!
Ayala Museum has a display of early Philippine gold artifacts. The ancient peoples would bury their dead with orifice covers and face masks made of finely-hammered gold, and used it for many decorative and religious things. Another gallery featured great Philippine artists including Juan Luna (19th Century), Fernando Amorsolo (20th Century), and Fernando Zobel (late 20th Century). Lastly was series of 60 dioramas depicting the main historical events in Philippine history. Much was bloody and full of oppression and occupation by other nations. The story of Jose Rizal was included along with those of other revolutionaries. Ninoy Aquino, the beloved senator who was assassinated, was prominently featured.
After a tiny bit of shopping (I did arrive in the PH with minimal clothes and have found it a bit of a pain) I made it to the Jeepney terminal and hopped aboard. Ramil had told me which stop to get off at: Aurora, and which Jeepney line to take: Pasay Road to Libertad. Not a problem. I'm getting used to the crowds and the traffic - not that I like it but you adapt.
Made it home just in time for a shower and a bite before we had to catch a cab to practice at Infinitif Studios. This time, a run through of last rehearsal's songs and then right into new stuff. Most I had gone over with Alfie in Winnipeg, listening to Half Life Half Death's CD and making notes of what to do where. Then of course he had to throw at me some new stuff I'd never heard before. Sure, no problem, bring it on! After we had a few minutes to jam and I grabbed Joel's accoustic guitar - we launched into a bunch of Cult, Cure, and Modern English tunes, plus some other randoms that I've never heard before. So much fun!!
Today, Friday, Inna, Alfie and I did the Fort Santiago where a facebook friend of Inna's, met through an online New Wave radio station, works as the Curator of the Jose Rizal museum and shrine. Zarah personally showed us around and answered all our questions. She's in charge of dealing with all media inquiries, event planning, and public relations for the museum, plus research and other coordinating related to the museum. It was really an honour to have her to ourselves for a little over an hour. Now I have a much better appreciation of what Jose Rizal, the Philippine national hero, means to this country. at the gift shop I bought a copy of his poems, a biography, and a collection of his letters and essays - most necessary purchases!
Then Inna led Alfie and I on a madcap search for the famous market, Divisoria. She jumped a Jeepney, then dove into a shoulder-to-shoulder crowd wending to a cathedral, Jesus de Nazarene or something like that. Mass was under way and a huge line extended out of the church awaiting communion. We all gripped our bags close and stayed close when we made purchases. Ultimately, the crowd was not the Divisoria we were looking for and we never got there because I needed to get back home in time to change and get ready to meet Ali and Sumek for dinner at 6pm at Harbour Square. Also, it seemed like it would be a bit of a hunt to find the elusive marketplace.
Once home I had just enough time to shower and change and then walk down the alley that is Facundo Street in my fancy heels from Salzburg and my silk dress made by Guru clothing in Winnipeg from recycled Indian saris. The cabby I hailed turned out to be an honest, hard-working gentleman who charged a fair rate and knew exactly where to take me. Fare only 85p but I gave him a tip.
There was just enough time to have a snack and a huge latte at Starbuck's (yes, there's a bunch even in Manila - so wrong - but it makes an obvious meeting place). Ali and Sumek arrived in decent time and we ate at a Korean resto called Crazy Pan. The food was spicey (set poor Ali sneezing), and plentiful beyond our stomach capacity. We made it to the Cultural Centre right across the street and had lots of time before the show. Rain's two boys sat with me and the other Winnipeggers and Rain managed to find a seat in the same row further down.
The program included a small 5-movement piece by Dvorak, then a trombone concerto by Rimsky-Korsakov, and finally Symphony No. 5 by Carl Nielson, the 20th Century Danish composer. After the show we waited around for autographs from the trombonist, and I finally got to meet my new facebook friend, conductor Olivier Ochanine. More on the concert later since I'm dead tired - again!!
Thursday, January 19, 2012
Rock n Roll n History
Jose Rizal was executed by firing squad as a traitor for trying to fight for freedom against oppression of the Filippino people - much like Manitoba's Louis Riel. Bagumbayan or 'new city" was the site of his death and where today stands a huge memorial and park. Rizal apparently knew a ton of languages, was highly educated, and wrote several books including the novels "Noli me Tangere" and "El Filibusterismo". Upon learning of Rizal's story from my personal tour guide and rock guitarist incroyable, Pet, and further learning about the tumultuous history of the Philippines at the Ayala Museum, I bought both novels in English Translation.
Back to Wednesday - Pet and I walked the length of Manila Bay and all through Rizal park, then had to wait out a massive downpour. A big dark cloud had been building inland the whole time we were walking up the bay from the Cultural Centre and I kept noting, "It's going to pour. Storm's rolling in." Pet replied, "Naw, it won't." It's one of those things here - it always looks like it but you never know what will happen. This one dumped buckets of heavy rain for about 30 minutes during which time we waited it out with about 50 other people crammed into a small stand of snack shops in the park.
After we were able to step through puddles to see little tree arrangements with strange little stone sculptures. The park was beautiful. At one end was an example of a very old Manila house from before the War. Can't remember exactly but must have been from Spanish times. Little squares were made of seashell which was a plentiful building material at the time but is now of course rare. We ended up in what once was the Red Light district of Manila but which was shut down...not sure when but it became a ghost town after that. Now it's all restaurants. We ate at a decent Chinese restaurant, small and grimy outside, bright and spacious and sparkling clean inside. The service is amazing most places. The people are very attentive and customer-oriented in delivering service - a lost art in North America.
Now, headed back to the same area to explore the historical Fort Santiago.
Back to Wednesday - Pet and I walked the length of Manila Bay and all through Rizal park, then had to wait out a massive downpour. A big dark cloud had been building inland the whole time we were walking up the bay from the Cultural Centre and I kept noting, "It's going to pour. Storm's rolling in." Pet replied, "Naw, it won't." It's one of those things here - it always looks like it but you never know what will happen. This one dumped buckets of heavy rain for about 30 minutes during which time we waited it out with about 50 other people crammed into a small stand of snack shops in the park.
After we were able to step through puddles to see little tree arrangements with strange little stone sculptures. The park was beautiful. At one end was an example of a very old Manila house from before the War. Can't remember exactly but must have been from Spanish times. Little squares were made of seashell which was a plentiful building material at the time but is now of course rare. We ended up in what once was the Red Light district of Manila but which was shut down...not sure when but it became a ghost town after that. Now it's all restaurants. We ate at a decent Chinese restaurant, small and grimy outside, bright and spacious and sparkling clean inside. The service is amazing most places. The people are very attentive and customer-oriented in delivering service - a lost art in North America.
Now, headed back to the same area to explore the historical Fort Santiago.
Mall-Ratting in Manila
This trip is definitely more about visiting with friends and family rather than being a tourist. Usually when travelling, I make a list of all the sites I want to see and try to do everything on the list. This trip, I didn't make any such list. We have been sleeping in, having a nice breakfast with Ramil and Lovelle, Alfie's mother, and Melanie. Then we hang around, planning what to do the rest of the day and sometimes Alfie and I will go over a song.
Tuesday, Alfie, Inna and I picked up her three other children at their grandmother's place and went to Greenbelt Mall in Makati.The girls wanted Forever 21 but ended up not buying anything there. I found a huge poster of Chris Sharma climbing some stinking hard overhanging route, advertising some kind of fancy watch. I got alfie to take a picture: me spotting the great Chris Sharma.
The malls are no different from Winnipeg only they're bigger and have security guards at each entrance checking bags and purses for bombs or suspect objects.
After mall-ratting there was barely time to drop the kids back off and head home for a pizza dinner and then Ramil drove us to Infinitif Studios to practice.
Finally what we came for - a reunion with the gang in full performance mode. It was amazing how they all just plugged in, tuned up, and launched into a song - they knew how each other rolled so perfectly. I was also impressed at how easily they welcomed me and the violin voice into the lineup. Exhausting but satisfying. After practice we all went out for food and visiting.
Wednesday I wanted to get out and do something but ended up waiting until after noon when Pet arrived to take me for a walk. I needed to pick up symphony tickets at the Cultural Centre of the Philippines so we walked to around the Libertad LRT and caught an airconditioned version of the Jeepney up the main drag to the CCP. From there we walked past the Manila Bay area that's under construction after a huge storm made waves that destroyed the waterfront.
We ended up at Joze Rizal park, the site where the national hero of the Philippines was executed - his story reads much like that of Louis Riel. More on him later as I've just got back from Thursday's practice and am dead tired...zzz
Filling in the blanks of this post with some photos...
After wandering through the park, we had dinner at a Chinese Restaurant in Lunetta, the former Red Light district that is now full of interesting shops and restaurants.
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| A quiet morning where Alfie and his mom get to visit, after not having seen each other for many years. |
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| Facundo Street: our home for the month. |
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| Alfie's favourite breakfast food is Taho: soft tofu with tapioca and hot syrup. Delivered right to the door by this gentleman! |
The malls are no different from Winnipeg only they're bigger and have security guards at each entrance checking bags and purses for bombs or suspect objects.
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| How to shop when you're three! Evawwen finds a good deal. |
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| The girls are still shopping but the boys have had it! |
After mall-ratting there was barely time to drop the kids back off and head home for a pizza dinner and then Ramil drove us to Infinitif Studios to practice.
Finally what we came for - a reunion with the gang in full performance mode. It was amazing how they all just plugged in, tuned up, and launched into a song - they knew how each other rolled so perfectly. I was also impressed at how easily they welcomed me and the violin voice into the lineup. Exhausting but satisfying. After practice we all went out for food and visiting.
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| Rupert and Joel in action at Infinitif studios. |
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| After an exhausting first practice. Yes, that is a guitar pick stuck to the middle of Rupert's forehead. L-R back: Ramil, Bebet, Carol, Alfie, Aldrin, Joel. L-R front: Rupert, me, Rain. |
Wednesday I wanted to get out and do something but ended up waiting until after noon when Pet arrived to take me for a walk. I needed to pick up symphony tickets at the Cultural Centre of the Philippines so we walked to around the Libertad LRT and caught an airconditioned version of the Jeepney up the main drag to the CCP. From there we walked past the Manila Bay area that's under construction after a huge storm made waves that destroyed the waterfront.
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| Rupert shows me his former elementary school: St. Mary's Academy just off Pasay Road near Facundo Street where I was staying. |
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| Manila Bay. |
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| Hotel Manila and Olympic sculpture. |
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| Statuary of Philippine national symbols including the Caribow across Paseo de Roxas from Rizal Park. |
We ended up at Joze Rizal park, the site where the national hero of the Philippines was executed - his story reads much like that of Louis Riel. More on him later as I've just got back from Thursday's practice and am dead tired...zzz
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| Pathetic fallacy: a huge rainstorm moves in on Rizal's execution site and final resting place. |
Filling in the blanks of this post with some photos...
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| When it doesn't rain, it pours. Caught in a sudden downpour in Rizal Park, Rupert and I sought refuge in a small canteen along with about 50 other people! |
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| A small sculpture hiding under some topiary in Rizal Park. |
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| A prime example of a 19th Century Spanish house: stone first floor, wood upper floor, with inlaid shells on the window shutters. |
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| The entire Philippine islands in relief at Rizal Park. |
After wandering through the park, we had dinner at a Chinese Restaurant in Lunetta, the former Red Light district that is now full of interesting shops and restaurants.
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| Rupert, kankong (a type of spinace with fried garlic and coconut), and buko juice: there's a whole litre of the stuff in one coconut. |
Monday, January 16, 2012
New friends and old
Pasay City is unbelievably busy.yesterday was a case of Dorothy finding she was not in Kansas anymore! One day it's -9 in an empty prairie city, the next, +27 in wall to wall people, cars, Jeepneys (mini busses that go shorter routes), taxis, side car bikes, buses, in streets lined with fruit stall, shops, and construction. It's nonstop busy. Bricks in sidewalks are worn down to nothing. 80's architecture blends with what could be from 1930s or earlier.
After an exhausting flight of 18 hrs in the air and at least another 8 or 9 sitting around in airports, we landed and found Alfie's parents who kindly met us with a hired driver.
Children begging for money surrounded us. One persistent 10 year old girl practically climbed into the car with us, tugging at Alfie's sleeve so he finally gave her some change. We landed without Pesos so it was all borrowed from Tito Ed, Alfie's dad. Everyone stayed at Alfie's brother-in-law and sister's (Ramil & Lovelle) place. We slept until quite early and had breakfast prepared by Melanie, a hired girl who also looks after the children.
Getting money exchanged is not great. You have to use an ATM on the street. Risky but better for exchange rate is to bring cash and exchange it at Marcello Exchange. I got a decent rate out of the machine but exchanging at airports is a better guarantee of having cash on hand when you land although the change rate is terrible and there's a service fee.
We ate at a fast food place where service was great and dishes were reuseable. The food was also healthy-ish. Back home we slept off our jet lag until 7pm, then scrambled to get ready for the reunion dinner. Alf, Inna and I caught a taxi to the mall. Note: ensure the driver starts his fare meter as soon as you start. Of course he ended up over-charging and dropped us off at the wrong side of the huge mall we needed to be. Greenbelt mall is in Makati, the business district. Everyone is ridiculously well dressed and the crowds were huge even at 9 p.m. on a Monday night.
At first we couldn't find anyone at the meeting place but then they wandered back. Finally I got to meet the original members of Half Life Half Death. Carol, singer, Joel, guitar, Ramil, bass, Casper, drums, and Pet, guitar. Later Rain, guitar, and his wife Pink joined us and at our final meeting place, the band's silent member and photographer, Norman.
It was a great experience sitting in the midst of a group of old friends who hadn't seen eachother in many years. It was like they picked up where they left off. Once friend, always friends. Though much of the conversation was in Filipino, they kept me up to speed with translative asides.
We got home at 2am and finally sleep.
After an exhausting flight of 18 hrs in the air and at least another 8 or 9 sitting around in airports, we landed and found Alfie's parents who kindly met us with a hired driver.
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| Alfie's mom meets us at the airport. |
Children begging for money surrounded us. One persistent 10 year old girl practically climbed into the car with us, tugging at Alfie's sleeve so he finally gave her some change. We landed without Pesos so it was all borrowed from Tito Ed, Alfie's dad. Everyone stayed at Alfie's brother-in-law and sister's (Ramil & Lovelle) place. We slept until quite early and had breakfast prepared by Melanie, a hired girl who also looks after the children.
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| Ramil and Lovelle's terrace overlooking Facundo Street. |
Getting money exchanged is not great. You have to use an ATM on the street. Risky but better for exchange rate is to bring cash and exchange it at Marcello Exchange. I got a decent rate out of the machine but exchanging at airports is a better guarantee of having cash on hand when you land although the change rate is terrible and there's a service fee.
We ate at a fast food place where service was great and dishes were reuseable. The food was also healthy-ish. Back home we slept off our jet lag until 7pm, then scrambled to get ready for the reunion dinner. Alf, Inna and I caught a taxi to the mall. Note: ensure the driver starts his fare meter as soon as you start. Of course he ended up over-charging and dropped us off at the wrong side of the huge mall we needed to be. Greenbelt mall is in Makati, the business district. Everyone is ridiculously well dressed and the crowds were huge even at 9 p.m. on a Monday night.
At first we couldn't find anyone at the meeting place but then they wandered back. Finally I got to meet the original members of Half Life Half Death. Carol, singer, Joel, guitar, Ramil, bass, Casper, drums, and Pet, guitar. Later Rain, guitar, and his wife Pink joined us and at our final meeting place, the band's silent member and photographer, Norman.
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| The gang (L-R): Coy, Rain, Pink, Carol, Joel, Omai, Ramil, Pet, Me, Alfie. Missing: Bebet, Aldrin and percussionist Jesus. |
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| My new friend Rupert: adventures to follow! |
We got home at 2am and finally sleep.
Sunday, January 15, 2012
Mazur Sister in Hong Kong
Almost there. In Hong Kong, a city of legend, for the first time in my life. Unfortunately all I'll see of this world wonder is the airport. This journey to Manila began at 3:30 a.m. Jan 14 in Winnipeg. I completed last-minute cleaning, fussing, and readying my house for my house sitter. Then the cab was early so I couldn't finish breakfast. Argh!
Alfie, Charina and Evawwen joined me at the airport around 5:45 a.m. and then we were off to Vancouver. Who should I see riding first class but Ali Dekhordi, also on his way to Manila for work. We made arrangements to attend the Symphony on Friday - the Philippine Philharmonic. How Winnipeg is that? Ali was on a Waterton Lakes trip with me about 7 years ago in Grizzly country and scared off any hope of bear-spotting by singing at the top of his lungs in Farsi. That was also the summer of his infamous bearspray incident that has become legendary in the Alpine Club Manitoba Section history. But that's another trip from another chapter in my travels. Here is Evawwen commencing his travels at the age of three in the cockpit of the first airplane he ever set foot in:
I have never flown for 13 hours straight - until today. With a feisty two-year-old in front of me. Evawwen and I made a little finger game to keep him entertained while his mom and dad slept on each side.
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| Evawwen with his dad, Alfie: first plane ride ever! |
The plane flew north west from Vancouver, over the range close to Mount McKinley - such huge mountains!! I wanted to walk the ridges of all of them. Then we crossed the Bearing Straight and flew south west over Russia and Mainland China. Now, it's humid and raining in HK and we've a couple hours yet to board the last flight - 2 hours flying time to Manila. Alfie's parents are supposed to meet us at the airport and take us to his sister's place in Pasay City.
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| Charina, bright and cheerful after a 13 hour flight in the Hong Kong airport. |
The currency exchange for HK dollars is $7.50 to the US dollar. Coffee, yogurt and a Canadian maple granola bar cost $69 - HK!
Thursday, January 5, 2012
On the road again
"You sure don't let the moss grow under your feet," a friend remarked recently. I was explaining my upcoming trip to the Philippines. Once again I'll be bringing my fiddle and performing with friends who will be having a reunion concert of their New Wave band that was active in the late 80s-early 90s: Half Life Half Death. I've been playing in an off-shoot band started up in Canada by HLHD's lead singer, Alfie Vera Mella, (haLf man haLf eLf) adding a classical touch to his melody-heavy complicated epic-length songs. I'll continue this blog as I travel.
I've continued to travel with the old skrepka since returning from Europe last January, but on a lower-key scale so here's a few highlights of the past year, starting with Spring:
In May, my music-loving mountaineering friend Len and I headed South East to Chicago to see if we could accomplish a weekend of Chicago Symphony Orchestra concerts and Museums just as easily as we would a weekend of climbing in the Rockies had we headed West. We found we could indeed, even though it was a whirlwind.
We did the Museum of Science and Industry after which I could die happy having seen 1920s actress Colleen Moore's Fairy Castle full of miniature artifacts ranging from Rudolph Valentino's collection of mini suits of armour to a sliver of wood from the supposed true cross.
Len was all over the Field Museum, being a geologist, and I loved the brilliantly designed Evolution gallery. We could have spent days there but had to also squeeze in the Art Institute of Chicago. Highlights were the photo gallery, the Impressionists' section, and the American Gallery which houses the famous American Gothic painting and Edward Hopper's remarkable Nighthawks, which was the inspiration for a piece for cello and orchestra by Canadian composer Vincent Ho.
Speaking of new music, the CSO has a great Music Now concert series that features new projects throughout the year either by or curated by the two composers-in-residence, Mason Bates and Anna Clyne. The weekend we chose had two concerts going on: Music Now's Mercury Soul at the Red Moon Theatre, and a concert from the regular classical series featuring Yo Yo Ma performing Schumann's Cello Concerto. Yes, you read correctly: Yo Yo Ma, one of the world's greatest cellists of our time. Len and I were over the moon. Especially when we found ourselves standing within 10 feet of both Ma and the CSO's conductor Riccardo Muti at the unbelievably fun evening of DJ Mercury Soul - who turned out to be young master Bates himself. This story I must tell:
When Len and I arrived at the Red Moon Theatre, we had no idea what to expect. An open space had some tables for people to put drinks on, the bar was open, and several small stages were set up with music stands waiting on them. A skinny white kid was bobbing his head behind a Mac Book Pro up on the DJ bridge. Another young man in black was hovering around him. Electronica was pumping through the sound system and people were milling around. Eventually, the lights over a small stage with four music stands came on and as a string quartet mounted the stage, the electronica started pumping more intensely. The musicians were watching the man in black who was watching them. Soon he started conducting and brought them in. The beat faded and they took over with what turned out to be a few select movements from John Adams' Book of Alleged Dances (I found everything out later). When they finished, the electronica returned and the audience members started to dance. Every half hour or so the same thing happened in another part of the theatre space. The pieces played included: a duet for clarinet and marimba by Anna Clyne, Concertino for twelve instruments by Igor Stravinski (written in 1921) and finally a piece for percussion by Mason Bates. Just before the Stravinski, Len turned to me and said, "Isn't that Riccardo Muti over there?" Indeed it was. Then my attention was caught by the unassuming gentleman next to him. "Len, isn't that Yo Yo Ma?" Indeed, Len confirmed it was. Our evening was complete.
The next night, we wandered in to a pre-concert talk only to find the skinny DJ from the Red Moon being interviewed by a distinguished older gentleman in front of a crowd of Chicago's discerning cultural elite. "Who are your musical influences?" "What is a typical day of composing like?" they asked. The DJ kid was composer-in-residence Mason Bates. I had to ask a question: "We were at the Red Moon event last night and thoroughly enjoyed it," I began. "Yes!" he fist-punched, "Someone who was there!" and briefly explained the event to the discerning classicists who had not been in attendance. "What motivated your choice in the pieces?" I asked. Their modernity, he explained, made them the best match for electronica, even the Stravinski. Privately I had to disagree, having experienced what electronica maestro Stefan Obermaier can do with Beethoven. But I was pleased to bring up the subject to liven up the discussion.
Hearing Yo Yo Ma perform live was an experience of a lifetime. It was quite comical to see him pop out of his chair, cello and all at the end of particularly emphatic phrases. His passion was evident and his skill incredible. Still...I can't help preferring the flawless tone of Colin Carr when he performed with the Manitoba Chamber Orchestra at the International Cello Festival in Winnipeg in June - THAT was amazing!
In June, I took my violin on a short canoe trip, heading out to the Mantario Wilderness Zone in Manitoba's Whiteshell Provincial Park. My trusting friend Toni and I launched my wood and canvass canoe from the shores of Big Whiteshell Lake at 8:00 p.m. and faithfully portaged our stuff on an unknown (to her) 2 km knee-deep-in-muck portage via headlamp in pitch dark. I was wearing a dress. As one must when canoeing in absolute wilderness at midnight. Look, I didn't have time to change after work. And besides, I knew where I was going. When we launched from the shores of the second lake, Ritchie, green aurora borealis flickered in the sky above us. The water was glassy still and we glided peacefully, making a bee-line for the Ritchie Lake Campsite, hoping to find our friend Dan, who I'd promised we'd meet that night. As I scanned the shoreline I called out to him, hoping we'd arrived at the right bit of granite. No answer. Turns out he was sleeping alone in the back country...with earplugs in! Of course, this was to shut out those noisy drunken bears who were partying in the next campsite...
That weekend we wasted basking in the sun, wandering around to find dragonflies attacking beaver dams, and I got in some practicing in the wilderness, just because I could.
Dan and Toni and I had a repeat experience on the September long weekend only this time we headed out to Winnage Lake in the Experimental Lake Area in Ontario and experienced barren post-forest fire landscape as well as exploring where First Nations people have left pictographs on east-facing walls of granite. Amazing to stand or float by rock where hundreds of years before, people dipped their hands into pots of naturally-made paint and pressed them to the rock.
Each night I played music for the birds and the stars and my friends. On the last morning, several groups of paddlers sailed by and shouted "thanks for the music! It made our weekend!"
My fiddle and I have stayed relatively close to home since then - there's no way I was going to drag it 63 km on the Mantario Trail at Thanksgiving in October, which was - by the way - my eighth time completing that hike (yes, I'm so vain!) - this time with Dan. Every time it's different and every time it's great fun.
Musically this fall haLf man haLf eLf performed at a book launch for Dadolescence by Bob Armstrong, published by Turnstone Press. Our covers of New Wave songs by The Cure, Modern English and Depeche Mode plus one original, Never Ending Sun, complimented Bob's tale of a stay-at-home dad trying to find his place in the world, starting with selling off all his New Wave records as a rite of passage to becoming a real grown-up. In November, we were one of the opening acts for Philippine hip hop bands Glock-9 and Parokya ni Edgar. Finally, in December we joined forces with solo Winnipeg artists Cassie Hatcher and Sid Strange for a fundraising concert to support Aqua Books, a centre for songwriters, and authors, dubbed by it's owner Kelly Hughes, Winnipeg's Cultural City Hall.
Finally, aLfie and I are down to our last days of preparing for rehearsals with his former band mates in the Philippines for a reunion concert on Feb. 3 of HLHD.
I've continued to travel with the old skrepka since returning from Europe last January, but on a lower-key scale so here's a few highlights of the past year, starting with Spring:
In May, my music-loving mountaineering friend Len and I headed South East to Chicago to see if we could accomplish a weekend of Chicago Symphony Orchestra concerts and Museums just as easily as we would a weekend of climbing in the Rockies had we headed West. We found we could indeed, even though it was a whirlwind.
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| The mirror bean thing in Chicago's Millennium Park. |
We did the Museum of Science and Industry after which I could die happy having seen 1920s actress Colleen Moore's Fairy Castle full of miniature artifacts ranging from Rudolph Valentino's collection of mini suits of armour to a sliver of wood from the supposed true cross.
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| Colleen Moore's dollhouse at Chicago's Museum of Science and Industry. |
Len was all over the Field Museum, being a geologist, and I loved the brilliantly designed Evolution gallery. We could have spent days there but had to also squeeze in the Art Institute of Chicago. Highlights were the photo gallery, the Impressionists' section, and the American Gallery which houses the famous American Gothic painting and Edward Hopper's remarkable Nighthawks, which was the inspiration for a piece for cello and orchestra by Canadian composer Vincent Ho.
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| One of several Van Gogh paintings NOT in at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam but at the Chicago Art Institute. |
Speaking of new music, the CSO has a great Music Now concert series that features new projects throughout the year either by or curated by the two composers-in-residence, Mason Bates and Anna Clyne. The weekend we chose had two concerts going on: Music Now's Mercury Soul at the Red Moon Theatre, and a concert from the regular classical series featuring Yo Yo Ma performing Schumann's Cello Concerto. Yes, you read correctly: Yo Yo Ma, one of the world's greatest cellists of our time. Len and I were over the moon. Especially when we found ourselves standing within 10 feet of both Ma and the CSO's conductor Riccardo Muti at the unbelievably fun evening of DJ Mercury Soul - who turned out to be young master Bates himself. This story I must tell:
When Len and I arrived at the Red Moon Theatre, we had no idea what to expect. An open space had some tables for people to put drinks on, the bar was open, and several small stages were set up with music stands waiting on them. A skinny white kid was bobbing his head behind a Mac Book Pro up on the DJ bridge. Another young man in black was hovering around him. Electronica was pumping through the sound system and people were milling around. Eventually, the lights over a small stage with four music stands came on and as a string quartet mounted the stage, the electronica started pumping more intensely. The musicians were watching the man in black who was watching them. Soon he started conducting and brought them in. The beat faded and they took over with what turned out to be a few select movements from John Adams' Book of Alleged Dances (I found everything out later). When they finished, the electronica returned and the audience members started to dance. Every half hour or so the same thing happened in another part of the theatre space. The pieces played included: a duet for clarinet and marimba by Anna Clyne, Concertino for twelve instruments by Igor Stravinski (written in 1921) and finally a piece for percussion by Mason Bates. Just before the Stravinski, Len turned to me and said, "Isn't that Riccardo Muti over there?" Indeed it was. Then my attention was caught by the unassuming gentleman next to him. "Len, isn't that Yo Yo Ma?" Indeed, Len confirmed it was. Our evening was complete.
The next night, we wandered in to a pre-concert talk only to find the skinny DJ from the Red Moon being interviewed by a distinguished older gentleman in front of a crowd of Chicago's discerning cultural elite. "Who are your musical influences?" "What is a typical day of composing like?" they asked. The DJ kid was composer-in-residence Mason Bates. I had to ask a question: "We were at the Red Moon event last night and thoroughly enjoyed it," I began. "Yes!" he fist-punched, "Someone who was there!" and briefly explained the event to the discerning classicists who had not been in attendance. "What motivated your choice in the pieces?" I asked. Their modernity, he explained, made them the best match for electronica, even the Stravinski. Privately I had to disagree, having experienced what electronica maestro Stefan Obermaier can do with Beethoven. But I was pleased to bring up the subject to liven up the discussion.
Hearing Yo Yo Ma perform live was an experience of a lifetime. It was quite comical to see him pop out of his chair, cello and all at the end of particularly emphatic phrases. His passion was evident and his skill incredible. Still...I can't help preferring the flawless tone of Colin Carr when he performed with the Manitoba Chamber Orchestra at the International Cello Festival in Winnipeg in June - THAT was amazing!
In June, I took my violin on a short canoe trip, heading out to the Mantario Wilderness Zone in Manitoba's Whiteshell Provincial Park. My trusting friend Toni and I launched my wood and canvass canoe from the shores of Big Whiteshell Lake at 8:00 p.m. and faithfully portaged our stuff on an unknown (to her) 2 km knee-deep-in-muck portage via headlamp in pitch dark. I was wearing a dress. As one must when canoeing in absolute wilderness at midnight. Look, I didn't have time to change after work. And besides, I knew where I was going. When we launched from the shores of the second lake, Ritchie, green aurora borealis flickered in the sky above us. The water was glassy still and we glided peacefully, making a bee-line for the Ritchie Lake Campsite, hoping to find our friend Dan, who I'd promised we'd meet that night. As I scanned the shoreline I called out to him, hoping we'd arrived at the right bit of granite. No answer. Turns out he was sleeping alone in the back country...with earplugs in! Of course, this was to shut out those noisy drunken bears who were partying in the next campsite...
 |
| Have Fiddle will Paddle. |
That weekend we wasted basking in the sun, wandering around to find dragonflies attacking beaver dams, and I got in some practicing in the wilderness, just because I could.
Dan and Toni and I had a repeat experience on the September long weekend only this time we headed out to Winnage Lake in the Experimental Lake Area in Ontario and experienced barren post-forest fire landscape as well as exploring where First Nations people have left pictographs on east-facing walls of granite. Amazing to stand or float by rock where hundreds of years before, people dipped their hands into pots of naturally-made paint and pressed them to the rock.
 |
| First Nations pictographs, several hundred years old. |
Each night I played music for the birds and the stars and my friends. On the last morning, several groups of paddlers sailed by and shouted "thanks for the music! It made our weekend!"
My fiddle and I have stayed relatively close to home since then - there's no way I was going to drag it 63 km on the Mantario Trail at Thanksgiving in October, which was - by the way - my eighth time completing that hike (yes, I'm so vain!) - this time with Dan. Every time it's different and every time it's great fun.
 |
| Above Ritchie Lake, Mantario Trail. |
Musically this fall haLf man haLf eLf performed at a book launch for Dadolescence by Bob Armstrong, published by Turnstone Press. Our covers of New Wave songs by The Cure, Modern English and Depeche Mode plus one original, Never Ending Sun, complimented Bob's tale of a stay-at-home dad trying to find his place in the world, starting with selling off all his New Wave records as a rite of passage to becoming a real grown-up. In November, we were one of the opening acts for Philippine hip hop bands Glock-9 and Parokya ni Edgar. Finally, in December we joined forces with solo Winnipeg artists Cassie Hatcher and Sid Strange for a fundraising concert to support Aqua Books, a centre for songwriters, and authors, dubbed by it's owner Kelly Hughes, Winnipeg's Cultural City Hall.
Finally, aLfie and I are down to our last days of preparing for rehearsals with his former band mates in the Philippines for a reunion concert on Feb. 3 of HLHD.
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