Volcanos and Divisoria

A Sunday outing with my friend Carol and her little girl Leila somehow ended up being a two-day epic trek up the Taal volcano with Carol's father, his right-hand man, and his driver. Strange things do happen in this world.

Taal Lake, Tagaytay City, Cavite Province

After resting all Saturday after the big concert, I was itching to get out somewhere and suggested to Carol that we meet up for coffee. She'd been saying I had to meet her daughters - the oldest had a violin and was already playing the piano and guitar on her own. I headed out by cab armed with a map but still had to fight with the driver who kept turning off the wrong way even when I told him it didn't look right. Next time I won't be so nice and trusting - I think he was deliberately going out of his way to ring up the fare especially at the end when I clearly told him to go straight and he turned early. Argh. 500P later I made it to Carol's door. We had lunch and visited with her girls a bit. The oldest had to study but we took the baby (age 2) and with the family driver, headed to Tagaytay city to see the view of the volcano.

When Carol said you could climb it, I got bad ideas...of course!!!

But for today we enjoyed our Starbucks and headed to Sonya's Garden, a renowned restaurant, and enjoyed an afternoon with little Leila. The garden was beautiful and beyond it was a quiet zone and complete spa.

It also said "no children" so we totally went there!

Carol almost insisted I take the time for a massage so...I did. But then it was too late to eat there and Leila was getting squirmy. We headed to Carol's family resort and in discussing the possibility of climbing the volcano, she suggested I just stay at the resort overnight and head back to Tagaytay the next day rather than return all the way to Pasay City.

So the next morning, still wearing the dress I had on the day before, I was ready for hiking up a volcano!

Initially I was to go in the company of Carol's nanny's son for guidance and protection, but then her father, the esteemed resort owner himself decided to join in on the outing, so next thing I knew, his driver and right-hand man were also included!

The resort staff already fed me breakfast and I was ready to go by 8am but then we waited for Mr. Pobre to join us. Then we stopped for breakfast for the gentlemen, and they ordered food from the restaurant for the climb, which joined more food that we'd bought at a market and also food prepared by the resort staff. When we found a boat rental place that was suitable, we ultimately forgot all the food in the trunk of the car. The boat ended up being 2000 including a horse for Mr. Pobre, who at an age somewhere north of 70, was not to be expected to walk uphill in the heat. Upon arrival, we were indeed harangued by local people selling hats, bandanas, clothing, and everything except iPads. Mr. P was quickly swept uphill on his mount, but Resty the driver, Arnel and I took our time enjoying the walk, the view, and the smoking yellow sulfur that remained visible in some spots - Taal is still a live volcano being studied by seismologists and apparently it exploded only 20 years ago. At the top we found a lake down in a crater that is inaccessible unless you are studying it, and the lovely beach is actually more smoking yellow sulfur.

Sulfur beach still smokin'.

Opportunists have set up shacks selling touristy t-shirts and buko juice (coconuts - cut off the top and stick in a straw - there's about a litre of the good stuff in there). Not sure how much - Mr. P insisted. Then you could ask them to split it open and they shave a sliver of the shell for you to scoop out the coconut meat. SO good!

I was able to wander a narrow grassy ridge away from the touristy shack and get a more wild look at the volcano crater but was soon closely followed by tourists in medical facemasks, some in long sleeved fleece shirts and high heeled designer shoes (so not kidding). I had forgotten a hat so I had bought a bandana for 40P which served as hat, facemask, and sweat towel.

Satisfied with the view, we headed down, Mr. P first, again beating us to the boat. The ride back was relaxing and cooling compared to the hot slope. Mr. P seemed to have had a good time and I thanked him most emphatically.

Then I caught a bus that went from Tagaytay all the way back to Pasay City's Baclaren LRT station - from there I jumped the LRT (12php) and walked home from Libertad, feeling very much a local. And desperately in need of a shower! But so happy to have had a hike with a view.

Today, Tuesday, I had another long day on my feet: Divisoria - the infamous Chinese market place where the goods are abundant and the prices rock bottom. Everyone buys everything from Divisoria and sells it at jacked up prices elsewhere. I finally got to see first hand why everyone was telling me before, "It's cheaper in Divisoria." I didn't bring my camera in case of pickpockets but needn't really have worried - I was guarding my purse like crazy the whole time and had pinned my pockets shut.

First thing was I walked to the Makati Greenbelt area from Pasay City. Starbuck's and a visit to the BPI. Then over to the Dusit Thanh hotel to await Vic and Pet. Await is the word. Traffic is the main cause of the expression "Philippino Time," I think. Pet was stuck so Vic picked me up and we circled until we saw the orange Quechua backpack indicating our French friend.

Then EDSA to Roxas in the large, airconditioned almost-Jeepney that Vic uses to transport large bolts of fabric and other masses of clothing-making products. It was a real treat to be led around Divisoria by someone really familiar with it. Otherwise I'd be so lost. It's a crazy, filthy, non-stop place of buying and selling. The streets are beyond filthy and there's a distinctive stench. The buildings are all post-war crumbles of rust and dirt with laundry and faded advertising hanging in tatters from every wall. The fabrics are amazing, though. I found some beautiful brocade for 70php a yard - right on the street. Vic knew a lot of the dealers personally and finally at the end of the day when we dodged into a jam-packed fabric warehouse beyond the imaginings of even Winnipeg's Mitchell Fabrics, the staff actually carried Vic's purchases all the way back to the car. It's prom dress season so he's working on a collection of fancy formal dresses that need to be done by April.

Electronics, food, clothing, shoes, umbrellas, everything you could imagine, sell for less at Divisoria. You just have to have the nuts to venture there.

I think I'm out-shopped for now! Three full days left...not ready to go home yet!